The Centovalli Express rail journey
Hailed as one of Europe's most romantic rail journeys, the Centovalli Express traverses the green undulating valleys of southern Switzerland and northern Italy.
Route Length: Nearly 60km or 2 hours from Locarno to Domodossola
Stops: Locarno, Ponte Brolla, Tegna, Verscio, Cavigliano, Intragna, Corcapolo, Verdasio, Palagnedra, Camedo, Ribellasca, Re, Malesco, Santa Maria Maggiore, Druogno, Coimo, Marone, Verigo, Trontano, Creggio, Masera, Domodossola.
Getting its name from the Hundred Valleys region through which it passes, the Centovalli Express offers the most direct connection between the Gotthard and Simplon Railways. Besides this, its combination of tunnels, turns, bridges, and panoramic views make it an interesting, scenic route, passing Lake Maggiore and the northern Italian valleys. Take in views of rocky mountains, gushing waterfalls, rich vegetation, vineyards, clusters of chestnut trees, colourful glades, and small historic villages as you pass, travelling over 47 bridges while in Switzerland, and 36 in Italy.
This popular route, voted one of the most romantic in Europe, begins in Locarno, on the banks of Lake Maggoire. Locarno has the warmest climate in Switzerland, giving it a decidedly Mediterranean feel and encouraging the cultivation of a diverse range of natural flora and fauna. Before boarding the train, take the time to enjoy the many sites of natural beauty that surround the city, from the Cardada Cimetta, which allows you to witness the highest and lowest parts of Switzerland, the Valais High Alps and Lake Maggiore, simultaneously. Water sports and lake cruises are available at the lake, or stay further inland to weave your way through the Magic Valley or the Verzasca Valley, notable for its rich green-turquoise waters. For a taste of the religious heritage within the city, visit the late 17th century Church of St Anthony, the 16th century Church of San Francesco, the mid-17th century New Church, or the late 15th century Sanctuary of the Madonna del Sasso. The most intriguing monument in the city, however, is recognised to be the Visconti Castle, in which there is a permanent exhibition of Roman glass. Time your stay here for mid-week to enjoy the sights, sounds, and fragrances of the Thursday town market.
Depending on the service and time of day, the number of stops on the Centovalli route change. For your convenience, we have selected the most prominent and the most frequent in our description of the journey. Once acquainted with the regularity of the trains, it is possible to stop for an hour in any of the locations mentioned here to explore the Hundred Valleys in more depth. One of the first stops once the train is outside Locarno is Ponte Brolla, named after the iron bridge crossing the turbulent Maggia River. Rocky gorges, popular with daring cliff divers, eerie tunnels, and ethereal caverns have been shaped by the powerful flow of the vibrant turquoise water. 40 ancient grottos sit beneath the rock surface, which were once used to store agricultural produce.
The Centovalli Express then continues to its most northern point in Tegna. Here, the ruins of a prehistoric settlement sit an hour’s walk above the village. Shallow river beaches and smooth shelves of rock line the banks of the Maggia River, which are popular with swimmers in the summer months, but picturesque all year round. From Tegna, the train begins to travel southeast, first stopping in Verscio. Following the slopes of Pedemonte, Verscio is a traditional Ticino village. Grey stone houses topped with ramshackle tiled roofs sit beside houses coated in bright plaster. Narrow cobbled streets guide visitors, sheltered by the tall townhouses on either side. On higher ground, the unique, quirky 13th century San Fedele Church gazes over the village, next to the red crown of the bell and clock tower. Inside, it contains frescoes by Antonio da Tradate.
Only a few minutes away is the next stop, Cavigliano. Here, the flat land opens out further between the mountains, with neatly organised agricultural fields and plumes of evergreen trees. At the centre stands the Church of San Michele, built in the late 16th century, but Cavigliano’s biggest treasure is probably the old wine press, the keys for which can only be obtained from the Town Hall. The Roman-style Cratolo Bridge marks the beginning of the Onsernone Valley.
Next, you will find yourself in Intragna, home to a series of iron bridges that cross the Isorno torrent. A Roman bridge also arches over the white rock and jade waters. We would recommend alighting here to visit the many cultural and natural attractions. Within the town, visit the Church of San Gottardo, built in the early 18th century, though the oratory dates back to the 15th. The bell tower, built in the late 18th century is the tallest in Ticino, reaching 65m and with 166 steps from bottom to top. The Intragna-Pila-Costa Cableway will take you high up onto the mountainside, or, stay closer to sea level to visit the Regional Museum of Centovalli and Pedemonte.
Many hiking paths, reached through a curved tunnel, originate at the next stop: Corcapolo. The houses here are few and far between, clinging to the steeply sloped mountainside. Pass through Corcapolo to Verdasio, another quiet stop that sees the train zigzag in and out of tunnels. Those seeking even more stunning panoramas than the ones the Centovalli rail line has to offer, may alight here to take the Monte Camino cable car up to Rasa, at 900m above sea level. The traffic free village of Rasa can only be accessed on foot or by cable car, so retains much of its idyllic charm, surrounded by fields of flowers, dense forests, and rural walkways lined with dry stone walls. At the village centre stands the 18th century Church of St Anne.
Return to the train to continue on to Palagnedra. The train station is situated on the edge of the artificial Palagnedra Lake, at the foot of the winding road that takes you up on to the flat clearing in which the town itself sits. As you reach the top, the San Michele Church is directly on your right, adorned with more frescoes by Antonio da Tradate, dating from the 15th century. The houses are simply built out of stone and plaster, with a rural-Italian feel. Below the village is the Fenacci Mill, the only mill in the region that still has its original interior milling parts.
After exploring Palagnedra, re-board the train as it follows the shore of the lake and heads on towards Camedo, the next stop on this journey. Camedo is home to more iron bridges, which overlook one another. The railway bridge, high on the mountainside above the Melezza River, has become an iconic image for the Centovalli Express. Camedo has a very isolated feel, due to the imposing mountains that seem to curve around the town and the meandering course of the river, and is populated by colourfully decorated houses.
Before reaching its next stop, the Centovalli Express crosses the border into Italy. Within a minute of touching Italian soil, the train stops in Ribellasca. From here, the Centovalli moves on to Re, home to the Sanctuary of the Madonna of the Blood; a stunning pale stone building built on an arcaded stone platform on the edge of the mountain slope. Silver domes and peaks tops its many cylindrical towers, and tall, thin windows add a Medieval feel. Behind it, the white-washed, brown-roofed houses cluster. The grandeur of this central building is reflected in the translation of the town’s name: king.
On a stretch of flat land further east is Malesco, the Centovalli’s next stop. Here you will find the Church of St Peter and Paul, though the scenery around Malesco can be easily enjoyed from your train carriage. Drawing to the end of the long valley, your next stop is in Santa Maria Maggiore. The unique cultural attractions here include the Museum of Chimney Sweeps and the Delle Arti School Rossetti Valentini. Peaceful streets are lined with detached chalet-esque houses with wooden balconies and shutters.
As the valley becomes narrower and the forest becomes denser, the towns and villages become smaller. Druogno is a small town that epitomises quaint rural life; each house is unique, with coloured walls, fenced gardens, and breath-taking views. Beyond Druogno, however, the train stations are situated outside their corresponding villages, in the heart of the forest. Through Coimo, Marone, and Verigo, we would recommend remaining on the train to enjoy the wooded scenery. Trontano marks the widening of the valley and the beginning of your entry into Domodossola. Modern meets traditional in the style of the architecture, with heavy influences from traditional Swiss chalets, but white-washed walls and sleek slatework.
Heading down the hillside, the Centovalli stops off in rural Creggio, from where you can look out towards Domodossola nestled between the three mountains in the distance. Cross over the River Melezzo once more to reach Masera, before heading into your final stop: Domodossola. The tall townhouses of Domodossola crowd around vast squares, each with individually arcaded ground floors with shops and pavement cafes. On the central square, Piazza Mercato, the bourgeois buildings have unique balconies and loggias. Each building seems to lean onto its neighbours, with a unique roof, wall colour, and window style, giving this city an infectious charm. While in Domodossola, visit the 14th century Briona Tower, the Teatro Galletti, one of the most active theatres in the province, the 14th century Palazzo Silva, now an Etruscan, Roman, and Egyptian museum, the Collegiate Church, and the Sacro Monte del Calvario, a UNESCO World Heritage Site built by Capuchin Monks. In the Motta District, some houses still have their Medieval wooden balconies.
After arriving in Italy, perhaps continue your tour south, passing the Italian lakes on to Venice or the wine towns of Piedmont.
Click here to download a full PDF itinerary.