Adventuring on the Lofoten Islands

Flying to Bodø

Flying to Bodø from London was very straightforward. I found myself just north of the Artic Circle; this town is predominantly a favourite for summer locations, although it's also a treasure trove of winter activities.

I saw the imposing Saltstraumen strait nearby, creating the world’s strongest tidal current. A veritable maelstrom of foaming blue, 400 million cubic metres of waters pass through every six hours! I was fortunate during my stay here to be invited on an RIB cruise, although if you’re fancying the rush of adrenaline, it’s also possible to see this from the road.

The cod fishing industry has played an important role in the historic growth of this municipality. If you love seafood, this is the place to be!

Express Boat from Bodø to Svolvaer

For the next part of my adventure, I chose to go by boat instead of the Hurtigruten to Svolvaer. This took half the time and provides a very scenic route along the coastline; I boarded from next to the Scandic Havet Hotel situated right by the port.

Enjoying a warm coffee on the boat’s café, I could see out over the water and the Lofoten Islands from the viewing deck which had very comfortable seating.

I stayed at the iconic Svinøya Rorbuer. ‘Rorbu’ are the huts traditionally used by fisherman and these had been converted into very comfortable accommodation for my colleagues and myself. There are a variety of cabin options and high-quality food available at the restaurant.

The hotel also organised an RIB eagle tour with a driver who called the eagles to the boat as we went along. Although it was a bracing journey, the sight of these impressive birds swopping a matter of metres away was spellbinding. The tour also took us up the Trollfjord where the legendary battle of the trollfjord between the fishermen and the sailors took place, hence why it is said to be haunted by trolls!  

For our meal that day, we had lunch in a hotel-owned historic cabin, maintained in the same way since when fishermen lived in it, complete with a fishing room and a sleeping room. Later, we had dinner at the 9-bed manor house which is incredibly luxurious and kept in the way it was when the family lived there – beware the ghost of the Housekeeper!

Taking the Hurtigruten to Ornes

I took the Hurtigruten boat called the 'Richard With' to Ornes. This is a very modern vessel with excellent facilities including dining area, an entertainment show about the Hurtigruten history in the evening, two jacuzzies (warm enough for the winter) and spacious outside cabins.

I then took the same Express Boat to Stott which I’d taken to Svolvaer.

This is a quaint island with a wide range of activities available. In summer, the weather is certainly more amenable and the sun comes out more often! The only way to get to this remote corner of the world is via the express boat although cars cannot be taken to the island. If you wish to travel using the Hurtigruten via Ornes, bear in mind that you arrive quite early at 6:35am!

I partook in a salmon BBQ on the beach at the end of a guided walk which was delicious.

I was also very lucky to go kayaking between the islands. Slicing through the clear water with the magnificent backdrop of the mountains behind me is one of the most surreal experiences I’ve had yet as a lover of travel.

Flying with Wideroe to Tromsø

While waiting in Bodo to catch my flight with Wideroe to Tromsø, I saw the northern lights - this was the crowning glory of the trip. Even without a telescope, to the naked eye the arcing colours across the night sky looked every bit as magnificent as in the photos I’d seen previously.

A small propeller plane took me onwards to Tromsø airport.

Exploring the ‘Arctic Capital’ was very enjoyable. The town is small but has an intimate feel. I visited the Troll Museum and city centre with a variety of shops selling locally made clothes and gifts.

Final thoughts

This was a very informative and worthwhile trip for me, demonstrating the variety of activities, landscapes, wildlife and food on offer to those interested in our Norwegian itineraries. There’s something about this rugged, charming country which gets under your skin and makes you want to explore every nook and cranny.